RUNWAY REPORT SS20
Moods of the Season
Focus On... New Romantics
A trend becomes most compelling when unexpected brands lean towards the aesthetic. This season, several minimalist brands—including Khaite, Marina Moscone, and Gabriela Hearst—found success with a more feminine direction; incorporating decorative embroidery, sheer fabrications, and florals.
Khaite
Designer Catherine Holstein put a nostalgic twist on her signature American sportswear, serving artful juxtapositions of plaid, florals, denim, and tulle. The collection’s bestseller was the Maddy top—a body-hugging, décolletage-baring, long-sleeve knit that came styled beneath corset tops on the runway.
Marina Moscone
One of NYFW’s emerging talents Marina Moscone evolved beyond her typically modernist silhouettes and minimal surface embellishment. Her collection, which garnered a sales increase of 120 percent since SS19, featured sweet embroidered florals and smocking techniques.
Gabriela Hearst
Immaculate fabrics and precise tailoring are synonymous with Gabriela Hearst. Incorporating macramé, crochet, and fringe, the designer used more handicraft than ever before, resulting in a beautifully sensual take on femininity. The look is encapsulated in her bestselling piece: a classic white dress, crafted entirely from hemp, and complete with delicate macramé detailing.
Seductively revealing necklines grabbed attention at Khaite and Miu Miu, where almost a quarter of sales came from the off-the-shoulder cardigans styled throughout the show.